Txakoli has a reputation for simple, zippy whites meant to be drunk young and fast. Juanjo Tellaetxe has something different in mind. Grown on a single parcel of alluvial soils in the Arrastaria Valley at 330 meters, this monovarietal Hondarrabi Zuri spends six months on lees in stainless steel and the indulgent texture of the wine shows. Stony minerality, bright citrus and a length that lingers well past the first sip. Low-intervention farming, hand-harvested fruit and a winemaker with phenomenal intuition.