Txakoli has a reputation for simple, zippy whites meant to be drunk young and fast. Juanjo Tellaetxe had other ideas. Grown on a single parcel of alluvial soils in the Arrastaria Valley at 330 meters, his 100% Hondarrabi Zuri spends six months on lees in stainless steel — longer than most producers bother — and the result shows. Stony minerality, bright citrus, and a length that lingers well past the first sip. Low-intervention farming, hand-harvested fruit, and a winemaker with something to prove.