Mount Etna is one of the few places on earth where the vines survived phylloxera — the volcanic black sand simply wouldn't let the louse take hold. Santa Maria La Nave farms those ancient bush-trained survivors at 800 meters on the volcano's southeast slope, where the air is thin, the soil is pulverized ash, and the Mediterranean glitters far below. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio, fermented in stainless steel and aged nine months in French oak followed by six in bottle, emerge with the bracing acidity and quiet authority that only this particular mountain seems to produce. Organic, hand-harvested, 3,200 bottles. One of the most compelling addresses on Etna.