Chiara Condello farms less than a hectare of Sangiovese in the heart of Predappio, on the ancient pliocenic sandstone known locally as Spungone — a soil that gives Romagna's best reds their backbone and nerve. Le Lucciole spends 40 days on skins and two years in large Slavonian oak, the kind of unhurried winemaking that produces something you open once and think about for a long time after. Organic farming, indigenous yeasts, 4,000 bottles made. Vinous called her one of the most exciting new producers in Romagna — we'd simply call her the real thing.