Cannonau — Sardinia's ancient answer to Grenache — has been grown in the island's rugged interior for longer than anyone can reliably document. Famiglia Demelas tends sixty-year-old bush vines in the Mandrolisai zone at 1,650 feet, on granitic soils that stress the vines just enough to make them interesting. Nine months of careful aging, with a touch of oak on a fifth of the wine, adds structure without hiding the fruit. The result is generous and warm but never heavy — a red with the kind of easy confidence that comes from very old vines and very good land. A debut worth paying attention to.