At 3,600 feet, the vineyards of Santa Maria La Nave sit among the highest in Europe—among the ancient lava flows of Etna, pulverized ash and decomposed rock, where fruit trees and wild groves grow alongside vines. Here, Sonia Spadaro Mulone farms Grecanico Dorato, the Sicilian alias for Garganega, in soils with a talcum-like texture that exist nowhere else on earth. Battonage of fine lees and six months in bottle before release give Millesulmare a richness and precision that speaks of altitude and volcanic energy—complex, mineral and unlike anything else in your cellar. If you know Santa Maria La Nave from Calmarossa, this is the other side of the same extraordinary mountain.