With prolonged skin contact, spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts and no sulfites added, Privo L'Eretico marks an impressive qualitative benchmark within southern Italy's indomitable natural wine movement. At the helm is Paola Riccio—outspoken, vivacious and a force of nature. Guided by conviction rather than convention, Riccio is a champion of the native Pallagrello Bianco— grown with love for the land, at elevations of 220–270 m.s.l. in clay and fine gravel soils. This wine candidly reflects the conditions, time and place of its origin. With only 1,200 bottles produced, the 2017 is drinking beautifully nearly a decade on—a testament to both the vintage and to Riccio’s mastery of her own craft.